Dyneema climbing sling vs runner reddit. Nylon cord is the most common.

Dyneema climbing sling vs runner reddit 13 votes, 32 comments. Dyneema slings are also easier to break when there isn't anything that can stretch in the system (eg an anchor of just dyneema slings). I thought about just using some of my retired Dyneema climbing slings, but those are very thick. Specifically, buying oz runner kits and splitting the silver biners that come with them into two draws using a spare runner and two orange hoodwires. I was freaked out after watching the video, Break Nylon & Dyneema Slings, and I was wondering if you guys could provide me your thoughts about the safety of our Dynex runner. 99 Feb 3, 2017 · The peak impact force will be lower with a nylon anchor sling than with a dyneema sling, but high enough in either case to potentially cause injury to the climber or to cause gear to pull out. Does that only apply to when it can be shock loaded? My extended rappel setup is as follows: Halve the sling through the belay loop on the harness 2) Tie a knot, half, 8, whatever in the middle Shop for Slings at REI - Browse our extensive selection of trusted outdoor brands and high-quality recreation gear. GM CLIMBING 16mm Nylon Sling Runner. For repeated use, probably not the best material to slide on the rope, but it will work to get you out of a jam if you need to use your slings. That looks like a dyneema/spectra sling for climbing. Just curious. Cheers. be careful so that the atc is within arm reach. So, I'm not sure what to do. It's thinner than, say, RBTR's Venom webbing. the single strand now has to take half the shared load. of force. Dyneema has very little stretch and falling with a dyneema sling attached to an anchor can generate a massive amount of force, sometimes enough to break the sling. In short, nylon is heavier and stretchier, while dyneema slings are lighter, less absorbent, and more slippery. If it was small diameter (1/4" Goldline) it was usually doubled. Nylon stays strong longer and doesn't slip as much when used in a girth or clove hitch. It has a recognizable aesthetic and is available in two different colors: a bright orange color that makes it easy to spot and distinguish, and a grey-rock colored version that blends more into the rock climbing wall environment. Using it for alpine draws, slings, dogbones, etc is all good because it's not catching a static load, the rope is dynamic and therefore the sling doesn't have to take the same kind of force as it would catching a static load directly. Why put a knot connecting the two dyneema slings, and why not just build an anchor for each climb? I can't remember what it's called, but if you want a fast, easy anchor, maybe consider a "quad(?)". I still carry at least one tied double length runner because it's easy to untie and thread/use for rap tat. This is due to the material behaving more statically, and why it doesn't matter once rope is introduced into the system, which was what the OP's concern was about. BD Neutrinos) and using an open sling between the… Feb 25, 2015 · My 12mm dyneema mix slings lasted many years of frequent use and pull tested to a perfectly adequate strength once they were retired (I don't recall specific numbers but I wasn't surprised or alarmed). Most people I know use a sling or two to clip into the anchor setup. This is absolutely true, but does that mean no one should ever tie in to a rope. Generally recommended to replace soft goods (nylon/dyneema cord, slings, etc. Jul 5, 2020 · I’ve been climbing trad for 2. Aug 18, 2019 · Whether cragging near the ground or multi-pitch climbing, any of the slings in this review will work great. 79Oz Certification: CE1019 EN566 / UIAA 104 Light weight while of high durability to 22kN Low cost while versatile in Road Runner Bags Lil' Guy Mini XPAC-- wear it sling, crossbody, hip, or stuff it inside your bag as an organizer. While these design Oct 9, 2023 · Had an interesting conversation about knots in slings at the Petzl Institute WAH course. Posted by u/prussick - 21 votes and 49 comments 240mm dyneema/nylon sling is also great, especially if you're not worried about complicated belay stations. BD 18mm nylon I sling horns a fair bit where I climb, but I loop in a slip knot to keep it from coming off as I climb by. Notice the chart showing factor one and two falls on their dynamic lanyards versus nylon and dyneema slings. While virtually every Dyneema sling also includes some Nylon fibers on the edges, the Titan Runner intermixes the two, creating a checkered pattern. What OP’s asking about here is the rubber “keeper” though. The document has moved here. All that said, I dont know what the useful life of climbing slings is and retire mine frequently. Basically, once the ends are clipped together it’s identical to a normal sling. But 5mm in most cases is too thin, go for a double length dyneema sling or try to find some 6 or 7mm. I also don't do much knotting of slings; I've heard it can cut itself. I would use 5. g. If I were just getting started, I'd consider getting one (or other small integer) of every make/model; your partners who lack inquiring minds will think you're the Frankenstein monster and be unable to dress appropriately to compliment your sling colors. Mar 23, 2022 · KIKIGOAL 18MM Nylon Climbing Sling Runner 23KN CE2008/EN566 Rock Climbing Webbing Straps for Outdoor Climbing, Rappelling, Swing, Yoga Hammock etc 4. Dyneema slings can be made to work if you have nothing else, but the material is so slippery it's hard to get them to bite. However I wont hesitate to just use draws if its a typical setup. The trade off with UHMWPE is that it is much stronger per weight, but weaker under shock load. ) A 10 mm or 11 mm Dyneema sling is recommended for anchor building. for cams, draws, and anything else) after 7-10 years maximum, regardless of wear and tear (and of course earlier if damaged). The Black Diamond Nylon Sewn Runner is far and away the most economical choice you can make when it comes to buying a sewn sling. My concern with this one is that the shorter non-adjustable arm would be too short. While we are not suppose to fall directly on Dyneema slings and these test are worst case, it seems like nylon is the better material, but people like Dyneema because it's l 6 is a good start if you supplement with sport draws for long pitches. I personally dont like using sport draws for trad climbing so I carry 10 regular shoulder length slings and 2 double length slings on longer stuff, all racked with 2 carabiners on my harness. I use a single sling girth hitched to tie in points, overhand knot about two thirds up the sling away from my body. I don't do any ice climbing, so I can't relate to that. Sewn slings are better in strength, weight and usability. 7 out of 5 stars 445 1 offer from $16. Here in Italy in Mountain courses they teach to only use kevlar cords for this purpose due to its higher melting point. This means that tying knots into this sling is not only easy, but due to its thick and stiff nature, they don't tend to cinch down as tightly as knots in other slings do, enabling you to far more easily untie them in a hurry when you leave the belay. Jul 2, 2018 · I have been using the clove hitch with a Dyneema sling (Clove Hitch Trad Anchor) to build my anchors, but after watching the DMM Video(DMM Sling test) of them breaking slings, with the knotted Dyneema breaking at way less than the knotted Nylon sling, I am considering changing to the Nylon 240cm sling. I made my quad from 7mm and it works really well. Aug 20, 2019 · The Beal Dynamic Sling is a 8. This shows that although the knot absorbed energy, it also created a weak point that required less force to break than the unknotted sling did. Sport anchor: 2 quickdraws Trad anchor: cordelette or climbing rope Climbing Slings. I don't like the feel. I've never seen anybody preclip gear to slings, bandolier style or with quick/alpine draws. I have a couple of Edelrid's Techweb slings that are a dyneema core and nylon sheath. As far as brands go, I absolutely recommend the mammut dyneema slings. I don't like how it bunches up as an alpine draw. And I'll have a prussik backup onto the rope below the belay/rappel device, so its kinda redundant anyway. For example would dyneema slings work as well as nylon on fixed ropes as a runner, or for crevasse operations. 5 years now and I’m slowly working on trimming up my typical rack and making it more efficient. Dyneema climbing sling hardly absorbs water, making it more friendly to sports such as ice climbing. Jun 7, 2024 · Blue Ice Mission 180 cm sling. Nylon is the original sling material. Trad climbers will often forgo the Personal Anchor System and just use slings, since they have many on their harness already. A fall factor 5 is a fall factor 5 whether you fall on a dynamic rope or a dyneema sling. , your body weight, from the climbing rope onto the fixed anchor. Polyester is for all other purposes or if I’m trying to cut costs. Jun 15, 2020 · Bottom Line: Nylon slings could be made as skinny, safer dynamically and less expensive than Dyneema. These are larger than the 8 mm used in many 60cm and 120cm slings. Been a long time since I used 60 cm nylon slings for the last time. Business, Economics, and Finance. Growing Slings. Photos in some of my old climbing books show Brit climbers using tied cordage for extenders. They are slimmer in width than a traditional nylon sling, but not as thin as a dyneema one, and much thicker in depth and stiffer than a purely nylon or dyneema sling. It's not going to come out. 6kN, or the equivalent of 5,980 lbs. On longish trad routes or multipitch I usually do both and split it pretty even between over-the-shoulder nylon slings with a wiregate each and the rest as dyneema alpine draws. What type of sling are we talking about and what type of belay loop? There has been at least one recorded case of a thin dyneema sling slicing a belay loop when a climber fell on it from max extension. 49Oz, 120cm-79g / 2. Should we continue to use it? Dyneema for extendable draws and extra long runners for gear anchors. dyneema slings is a long one and worth reading up on. Slings make of dynamic material are both impractical and unnecessary 1. One of the tests they do is to put a knot in and break test. The melting temperature doesn't really matter either - I don't think there's been a single documented case of melted slings in alpine draws during proper use. Nylon for anchors and tethers. Time alone is not a good indicator of softgoods lifespan Skinny slings do not last as long as fatter slings, simply because less material. Snag a set of trango or dmm offsets and that should cover you for most nut placements you'll run into Created with sport climbing in mind, these quickdraws feature an ergonomic 12 cm vari-width nylon sling for grabbing while projecting. minimum 8 alpine draws (60 cm Dyneema slings paired with two lightweight wiregate biners) Trango phase sets are the cheapest or find cheap wires and Dyneema slings at some gear shops and you're set. rock horns for protection, or to connect you to an anchor. Basically it’s a regular sling/runner, sewn shut in the middle. without a dynamic element in the system between you and the anchor, like a climbing rope) will generate far more than 2kN of force, and will likely result in slings breaking, injury, bolts popping, etc. Universal sling for rock, alpine, and multi-pitch climbing; Lightweight 8mm Dyneema construction minimizes pack weight; Durable Contact stitching ensures smooth handling at seams; 180cm length ideal for extending gear or creating anchors; Robust and reliable for critical climbing setups; Weighs just 53g for ultra-light performance on technical Swapping leads means I'm climbing with one of my buddies I'm dialed with and know they understand assessing anchors but when climbing where I'm leading others the shelf is usually just my personal anchor point to allow my second to have all the master point they need without worrying about creating a cluster before I'm off again. If the bolts are connected with a chain (thus, redundant), I clip to the chain. ) Favorite sling is the Mammut Contact 8mm as its stitching is snag free. Thanks for the comment! To clarify, what I mean is the peak static force a sling can hold. FWIW I bought the dyneema set and added a classic black for the low end. A rabbit runner is a normal sling, cut open. In both samples the knotted sling broke under less impact force than the unknotted sling. com : AINIKEY 18MM Nylon Climbing Sling Runner 23KN CE2008/EN566 Rock Climbing Webbing Straps for Outdoor Climbing, Rappelling, Swing, Yoga Hammock etc（Green | 120cm / 48inch | Pack of 3） : Sports & Outdoors Nah the stitch holds up at least as well as a knot. Currently this is what I typically rack 8 quickdraws (25mm long dyneema dogbones) 4 Shoulder length dyneem alpine draws 1 Double length dyneem sling Apr 11, 2023 · looks like an even better version of the rabbit runner! Not really. Hi Climbit! I'm wondering if we're able to create our own quickdraws by getting two wiregates (e. I currently have some from two different sources - one… Apr 11, 2019 · The Camp USA 11m Express Dyneema Runner is remarkable in the fact that it performed the absolute best in our knot test. I hope that helps anyone here or future google search users that land on this page. All in all the draw weighs in at 60 grams. I can get 10pcs for about $130. Nov 22, 2024 · Palm size, lightweight, easy to put it in your pocket to carry. 85Oz, 60cm-42g / 1. For the same diameter rope, dyneema is strong than steel. the accessory cord is not climbing specific so it's rated for single line loads and lists the breaking The 2nd fall test of the 16mm nylon sling provides the strongest evidence. Of course not. Maybe if I was going super light alpine I'd just use a dyneema sling but I'm not so it works for me. It is definitely a little bulky because there end up being a lot of strands going between your tie in points and the carabiner but it's not too bad. and over the years have also seen many sport climbers bring a couple 60cm (and even longer sometimes??) alpine draws for their projects (difficult clips, minimising rope drag Apr 11, 2019 · At only 8mm wide, the Contact Sling is a full two millimeters narrower than the second closest competitors, the Pur'Anneau Sling, Black Diamond Dynex Runner, and the Sterling Dyneema Sewn Runner. It’s actually sort of the opposite. So if you tie off a triple runner as you would a 20' cordallette, any knot slippage would merely cause it to cinch on a carabiner. Then, you can untie your climbing knots and use the rope to rig the rappel. I've been using the… The single-length sling is, technically, non-redundant, but so is the belay loop, rappel device and biner, and rope, and the 22kn sling is wild overkill for the forces involved in the rappel. The Sterling Nylon Sewn Runner is no exception, and performs pretty much exactly the same as the other Nylon sling we reviewed, the Black Diamond Nylon Sewn Polyester slings are a staple in alpine climbing, not least because they are comparatively cheap. No one-size-fits all in either climbing style (blocks vs swing) or anchor building (slings vs rope). Dyneema would be a bit better. Runners come in different sizes and are either secured in a loop via stitching or a knot. Although nylon climbing slings are UV stabilized, prolonged exposure to UV has a detrimental effect on both Nylon and Dyneema. Dyneema slings are prized for their light weight and low bulk, and alpine/winter climbers often prefer them for not absorbing water. It actually took quite awhile to become adopted into climbing practice and it wasn’t until the late 60’s and early 70’s that it became universally accepted (thanks to Outdoor Gear Labs for the history). 22Kn for a sewn sling) and perhaps more importantly the mode of failure isn't consistent. Sounds like yes, if pushed. dmm has a very nice video regarding slings. I am a fan of Sterling power cord after only one climb. The reality is, most of us use it on our draws, most of us use it in situations where falls aren't very common, and when dynema/dynex fails it's almost always when people girth two pieces of soft gear together, not from a crazy fall onto a sling. I like the 6mm rope. 100% Satisfaction Guarantee Yeah, this is probably the best way. Nov 21, 2017 · Sterling 12mm Dyneema Climbing Sling . 3M subscribers in the climbing community. That doesn't surprise me that they are thick. ) vs. What size slings and how many each do you like having set aside for trad anchors? Or do you prefer cordelette? And why. Dyneema hardly absorbs water, so it's great for winter climbing extendable runners, draws, everything. super skinny dyneema slings are a more modern phenomenon and you can see who this particular scenario may not be tested as frequently as some of the other failure modes as to yours truly i have 2 120cm slings with a UL locker on the bolt end and a locking DMM revolver on the rope end Shop for Dyneema Slings at REI - Browse our extensive selection of trusted outdoor brands and high-quality recreation gear. A 400cm sling is useful in winter for huge chockstones. I primarily use them to extend my cams. Your decision will need to be based on whether you have preferences regarding price, weight, or the specific attributes of Nylon vs. I do a fair few chimneys and offwidths so I don’t buy super fancy slings and biners so I don’t feel bad abusing them. dyneema (more static, absorbs less water, more slippery, stronger per unit of mass - so less material is needed to achieve the same strength ratings, etc. Dynex is a brand name for “high-molecular-weight polyethylene” fiber, which is essentially the same exact material that makes up Dyneema or any of the non-Nylon choices in this review. A Prussik loop that probably should be replaced A short nylon runner i use to extend my rappel device for abseiling Slings (also Called runners) Webbing; Cord; All these things are adaptable to several applications and behave as multi-tools on your scaling arsenal. Nov 30, 2009 · The failures I have had have been very frayed pieces of knotted 1/4" Dyneema with lots of use. Quad length dyneema sling- I love quads for MPs. They're super light weight and to me it's the most versatile way to go. And yes we are scared of falling. How many slings with a single biner do y’all carry vs alpine draws? I’m tempted to cut down to 6 alpines to save a few oz on biners, as I don’t foresee placing more than 6 nuts per pitch, but I’m kind of nervous about not having enough. This should not really have been news to anyone. Dyneema. Of course, you wouldn't knot Dyneema webbing. While it is heavy and bulky compared to the super thin and light Dyneema slings featured in this review, we chose to recognize it with a Top Pick award for clipping into a Belay or Anchor. Factor 2 falls directly onto the anchor with little to no rope out, should be avoided, regardless of sling material used to build the anchor. . The reduced strength still exceeds the climbing ropes intended purpose. I actually had to toss a dyneema sling today because it rubbed too much on an edge and tore through half of it. Much better than the regular sling based alpines or the slightly better "rabbit runner" style ones. Only been building gear anchors for 1 season and I’m finding it hard to see why so many people use the cordelette with a master point knot, instead of an equalette with 2 limiting knots in the middle and clove on 3 or 4 of the legs, depending how many pieces of gear in your anchor. if you want to improve/make it easier, get a daisy chain (looped, like the one grivel sells) instead of a knotted sling or even a normal nylon (not dyneema) sling. Aug 31, 2020 · The discussion over nylon vs. My only question is if the arms will be a bit too long. Even though it can be produced a variety of ways, a sling (also called a runner) is usually made by stitching a webbing section to a loop. I always carry prussik cord with me when climbing outdoors, because I like the option to go hands free on rappel, and have anchor building material. I wouldnt girth hitch or tie off Dyneema slings, like in the picture in the previous post. e. The main reason dyneema isn't used in climbing ropes. And perfect an anchor setup that minimizes or eliminates knots in slings. Simple solution: don't buy dyneema slings. I have one 110 with lockers as multipitch anchor/secure quickdraws, and one 90 and one 50 on Alpine quickdraws. GameStop Moderna Pfizer Johnson & Johnson AstraZeneca Walgreens Best Buy Novavax SpaceX Tesla. That said, if you don't put yourself in a position to fall on it, then you have removed that danger. A benefit of slings is that they're cheaper than the PAS and they aren't single-purpose, like a PAS is. IIRC falling on dyneema was unsafe and then horribly unsafe if there was a knot in it, and falling on nylon was not great but slightly safer if there were knots tied in it, because they progressively tighten over the course of a few Jul 30, 2023 · Amazon. Hi, new to reddit so dont even know if this is likely to get an answer but worth a shot. Posted by u/patjune19 - 1 vote and 15 comments Apr 20, 2006 · The conclusion was that it is not a good idea to allow significant amounts of slack to develop in any part of a belay/anchor system which does not have decent shock-absorbing capabilites, such as a relatively inelastic (compared to a climbing rope) dyneema or nylon sling. A sling can be used as an extended quickdraw to allow your rope to run straighter and decrease friction on wandering routes, or it can be used to set up an anchor. It is nice to have a fatter sling for 2-screw anchors (usually a nylon-dyneema blend so it's not too fat) because it's easier to untie when you are moving on from a multipitch belay. For alpine draws I just used the cheapest dyneema or mixed slings I could find and the cheapest wiregate biners that match my draw colours. The sling is made of incredibly high strength dyneema material. It's certainly going to suck a whole hell of a lot more on the dyneema sling, but it's still a fall factor 5. May 18, 2021 · To make matters more complicated, slings fill many more roles than one on a typical trad climb. It has virtually the exact same shape, feel, weight, and other characteristics as the Sterling Nylon Sewn Runner, except that it inexplicably costs about $1. Nylon Before the mid-90's, all slings and runners were made of Nylon, and most of them were simple pieces of one-inch tubular webbing hand tied into a circular sling. As far as the specifications for building a quad or any anchor for that matter its better to go thicker than thinner. half the strength and weight of a normal sling. They are a bit of a mismatch as I bought them at different times. However, where all those slings are flat webbing, this one is a rounded shape. Dyneema slings are great for setting up anchors, slinging things for protection etc. Mar 23, 2020 · I often carry a 240cm sling for UK trad and especially winter but depends on the route / likely anchors / how many 120cm slings I’ve got. 5x the single line rated load. DMM has a video of drop tests done on nylon vs dyneema. The Open Loop Sling, like many other Dyneema slings, is made primarily with Dyneema in the middle as the load bearing part of the sling, but with a larger than average amount of Nylon on the edges to provide elasticity and color. Because of the matte surface, knots made with these slings are particularly robust and secure. (It won’t work nearly so well with a nylon runner because the knots are too big, plus finding a 180 cm nylon runner is difficult. Aug 29, 2017 · So, regarding certain climbing softgoods - mostly slings and dogbones - most of us know about the respective properties of nylon (not as static, absorbs more water, handles repeated flexing very well, etc. com May 26, 2020 · Nylon for anchor slings, Dyneema (dynex) for extending pro. [SAFETY GUARANTEE] Ensures security. 5mm dyneema or kevlar for an anchor but you need to know the limitations. The dyneema itself wouldn't fail catastrophically assuming they used a reasonable Oct 29, 2023 · Edelird 16mm 240cm sling (really any fat 240cm sling, or 2x 120cm slings could work too. When you look at these harnesses, the webbing I'm talking about has approximately the same appearance as grosgrain along the mesh part, and it's folded over where it turns to attachment points. Think I’ve only ever take and used it once (the guide book specifically mentioned a huge chock). Sling Length Feb 11, 2016 · Getting Into The Details . ) 2x Edelrid Bulletproof HMS lockers (top roping on steel carabiners will save your rope from aluminum oxidation. Forgive the long link, but here is a great article: Personally, I think the whole static vs. I can clip directly into a cam, I can clip a compressed alpine draw and have a 10cm extension, I can extend it to 60cm or even clip two together for 120cm. Plus, in a pinch, the cord could be used for a prusik (or two), which is another thing you wouldn't want to do with a dyneema sling. Knots in nylon= ok knots in dyneema= less ok but still okay. Spectra is tougher than dyneema and will not shred as much over rock edges. I have a 24" and three 48" runners in BD dyneema. Need quick equalization between two pieces? Take that sling and make a sliding X. Very strong material. Also worth considering. That being said, if you’ve got rope to spare for anchor building you certainly gain a lot of ease in connecting pieces (don’t have to fiddle with making static arms and other weird configurations). For Alpine draws, if you have the occasion to try Blue Ice Alpine Runners, I love them. Jun 28, 2011 · I was thinking more generally. Aug 18, 2019 · Examples: Trango Low Bulk 11 Sling, Black Diamond Dynex Runner, Mammut Contact Sling, Petzl Pur'Anneau Sling, Camp USA 11mm Express Dyneema Sling, Sterling Dyneema Sling. I'm a big fan of my purcell prusik as an anchor. (all my sport draws have 18cm slings and get mixed use for sport and trad) Not sure what kind of impulse equations you're looking at, but a factor 2 fall on your dyneema sling connected directly to an anchor (i. Nylon. 7 out of 5 stars 467 $11. Dyneema has a lower melting point than nylon, so the heat caused by the friction of the prusik and the rope rubbing together is more likely to melt/weaken/break a dyneema third hand than a nylon third hand. Some people may still disagree with me, and will never use dyneema slings. 25 less, making the choice between the two simple. 100% Satisfaction Guarantee 17mm slings also seemed like a good length. At the anchor, I clip the sling to one bolt with a locker and the othe bolt with a draw connected to the sling below the overhand knot. May 26, 2020 · dyneema for alpine draws, have a few nylon kicking around still use em for random stuff mostly for sport dogbones, have a few dyneema with light carabiners for weight saving trips, but mostly use nylon for projecting and grabbing draws and stiffer so easier to clip. Nylon cord is the most common. 1. A skinny Dyneema sling is best for this. TL;DR: IIRC, they found that the nylon sling failed at MBS and the UHWMPE sling failed at 50%. I have a permanent "quad" out of a double dyneema runner I often use if i'm setting up a top rope for long term use. Sorta cottage? Massdrop x Intern Carry Packets -- multiple sizes (can even attach the smaller ones to the bigger ones), hooks/threads to up to 1" webbing so you can hook it on your bag's waist or sternum strap orother straps. HowNot2Highline on youtube has a good video comparing nylon to dyneema slings. Jan 6, 2019 · GM CLIMBING 16mm Nylon Sling Runner Specification Length: available in 30cm / 12inch, 60cm / 24inch and 120cm / 48inch (flat pull) Width: 16mm / 5/8inch Material: Tube Nylon Webbing Breaking Strength: 22kN / 4950lbf Weight: 30cm-24g / 0. a basic knot will reduce the strength of the rope by ~50% as a general guideline. Mar 13, 2019 · A simple nylon or dyneema sling can function as a personal anchor, although such a thing is certainly less versatile than the other options. Wear and actual use has the greatest detrimental effect on sling lifespan. The black is okay, but only 5kN I think Aug 9, 2016 · Rock Climbing: Runners A runner, which is also known as a sling, is a single loop of webbing. They were pretty shabby looking when I retired them. Spectra is not the same as Dyneema. Dyneema is lighter and thinner. This DMM testing in the link below shows failure of Dyeema in fall factor 1 & 2 and nylon performed better. I would prefer 16mm or more for ease of grabbing and durability, but these mixed wire/solid quickdraws only come in 11mm dyneema. There's also the drop tower tests that DMM has done. The GM Climbing 16mm Nylon Sling Runner is very thin and durable. 69 $ 11 . You may end up breaking down an alpine draw to use its components elsewhere, which is why it’s always nice to have a few Kevlar is super bad with knots and dyneema is pretty bad. Though it can be made a number of ways, a sling (also known as a runner) is typically created by sewing a webbing section into a loop. Crypto I've only been slacking since last Sunday, and only had to buy webbing because I already had the rest of the gear from climbing. Personally, I have a 7mm, 6mm, and 240mm sling in my closet since I like variety and they're inexpensive as far as trad climbing gear goes. ETA: I’m not concerned about climbing weight as much as overall pack weight for multi-day excursions. Moved Permanently. This makes them the best choice for situations such as extending a belay device , replacing anchor webbing or attaching yourself to an anchor before abseiling . The only con is cost. 3mm in diameter piece of climbing rope sewn into a sling. Brand: Brand: Sterling GM CLIMBING 16mm Nylon Sling Runner 22kN / 4950lbf CE UIAA Certified NewDoar 16mm Climbing Sling Falling directly on a nylon sling is only slightly less shitty than falling on a dyneema sling. That’s fine too. In a loop you are fine or with two strands to each leg of the anchor. It certainly depends on your application, but they recommended using a basket hitch with a carabiner over knotting or girth hitching a sewn dyneema or nylon sling whenever possible. Runners are most often used in traditional climbing (trad climbing) to lengthen anchors, prevent rope from dragging through rock and to keep gear from becoming As for nylon over dyneema: Dyeema is great in the application it's meant for. Dyneema slings have only Moved Permanently. This is for rappelling on multi pitch. TL;DR: If you like Oz carabiners the runner sets are a great deal. here are options all solids are keylock: $130 solid/wire mixed 11mm x 17cm dyneema 10pc set 1. The Titan Runner is also remarkable because it is stronger than any other sling in this review, having been safety tested to 26. dynamic is a moot point considering you should never take a direct fall on either spectra or nylon slings. in practice this increases overall breaking strength by about 1. They were sold out on nylon slings, so i bought a dyneema sling. See full list on outdoorgearlab. Top quality, great selection and expert advice you can trust. Slings are cheap, ubiquitous, and can be knotted to create different pockets. It is a mere 10mm wide and weighs only 22g for the 60cm double-length version, although this weight is a bit higher than other 10mm wide slings due to the added weight of the plastic sleeve that covers the bar tack. If you want a full set of light trad/alpine sling- and quickdraws for cheap I warmly recommend looking for sales of rack packs of light biners (CAMP NANO, Edelrid 19G etc), 60cm dyneema slings and 17cm Petzl Ange S/L or BD OZ Apr 11, 2019 · For the budget conscious, Nylon runners provide the same amount of strength, as well as a super soft and comfortable handle, all at a significantly discounted price compared to Dyneema. Some people leave this behind and use the rope to tie an anchor. My climbing partner and I have been climbing outdoors for a few months and we use two 18mm Metolius nylon slings or a 10mm Black Diamond Dynex runner to set our tope rope. Maximum breaking force test: 22kN(at least). assuming 2 good bolts, 2 draws is prob the easiest, if you really want you can get a couple dog bones and permanently put a couple lockers on them. Typically they’re slightly wider than Dyneema slings, measuring 16 to 20 millimeters. Need to sling a tree or horn? Grab a runner. They have finger grooves on the top keylock solid-gate carabiner for improved clipping and come in two variations with different bottom carabiners: either a keylock solid-gate or the Vesta Sport Mix model with a KIKIGOAL 18MM Nylon Climbing Sling Runner 23KN CE2008/EN566 Rock Climbing Webbing Straps for Outdoor Climbing, Rappelling, Swing, Yoga Hammock etc 4. Also to note, aren't the slings covered with a nylon sheath? Which would help prevent a problem with friction. But knotting a dyneema sling with an 8 on a bight, an overhand, or any other bight knot, isn't really a risk. You can either cut up your cordelette, cut up one of your nice expensive Dyneema slings or take my sage advice about carrying at least one tied runner. I need to replace some cord and am looking for brand recommendations. Oct 29, 2007 · Yes, dyneema/spectra melts at a lower temp, but just take it easy while using it. Next one I'm considering is the Petzl Dual Connect Adjust that user archiacfrost linked to. It's a loop of 8 mill cord folded in half twice with two overhand knots each tied ~4inches from the center. what you do is the best and correct method. Dyneema isn't used in climbing ropes because the non-stretch would be extremely hard on the climber (sudden deceleration could snap a back) and other components of the system (e. If you slip off the belay ledge and shock-load the anchor, dyneema breaks surprisingly (and scarily) easily. 69 Posted by u/SettingIntentions - 1 vote and 15 comments I never cared for the BD dyneema. Dyneema and kevlar is too slippery (especially when wet) and the water knot can and will most likely fail under tension. The home of Climbing on reddit. You shouldn't take falls directly on dyneema. A nylon sling would be more robust than a dyneema sling, but they are bigger and more unwieldy for such a purpose. Most common applications are alpine draws, slinging e. For a single strand kevlar would be heading towards sketchy since with a knot it’s probably 7kn. IIRC fisherman’s or webbing knots hold 16kN (on webbing) and sewn slings hold 22kN. Jul 10, 2023 · For example, in a multi-pitch climbing scenario where you plan to descend on the fixed anchors you just used for climbing the last pitch, rigging a rappel involves transferring the load, i. the nylon vs dynema thing isn't anything new. So we tested it. I was freaked out after watching the video, Break Nylon & Dyneema Slings , and I was wondering if you guys could provide me your thoughts about the safety of our Dynex runner. We compared this sling extensively to the BlueWater Titan Runner, which is another sling that uses both Dyneema and Nylon in its construction. I currently have all dyneema slings and am planning on buying a few nylon slings for clipping the first piece, building anchors, etc. Im getting more into trad climbing where obviously alpine draws are pretty much your go to for clipping your rope to cams, nuts etc. Sort of. His closing statement: Apr 12, 2019 · In both width and weight, the Sterling Dyneema Sewn Runner is very similar to the Black Diamond Dynex Runner. Personally I like Dyneema webbing for load bearing purposes but it is $$$ and available in limited widths so you can’t use it with all components. doubling the loop doubles the strength of the system. And I believe that the reduced strength of a knotted dyneema sling still exceeds it's intended purpose. afaik you can only knot nylon tape safely. Usually around 16-20mm wide, nylon climbing slings are much bulkier (and more durable) than lightweight 6-14mm Dyneema slings. In the climbing world, that rating is the break strength, not the safe working load limit! And any knots significantly reduce the strength of dyneema slings. Apr 12, 2019 · The Black Diamond Dynex Sewn Runner is one of the highest scoring, and most economical, slings in this comparative review. I use 6mm nylon cord. I just bring a bunch of alpine draws made up of 60cm Mammut dyneema contact slings with CAMP Nano 22's on both ends. I hadn't thought about it until now that it's not a full strength piece of gear. I swear this is the first thing that anyone told me when I started climbing. Just don't go climbing over it full length, and falling directly on it (although it could probably take that). That's all been replaced by dynema slings. As you probably know, dyneema doesn't stretch at all. A dyneema sling tested in slow pull fails at 26+kN, but in dynamic test fail at 21ish kN. Realized when I got home that I was taught to not tie knots in a dyneema sling. cams, anchor). My understanding is that they where trying to demonstrate that knotting your own dyneema slings is a bad idea because they can fail at relatively low loads (in a dynamic situation 15Kn vs. Maybe I should spend some time sand-papering them so they are nice and fluffy! Jan 29, 2022 · Like so much other gear, slings are a price, weight, durability tradeoff; the skinny stuff doesn't last as long as the nylon. Stretch doesn't have anything to do with fall factor calculations. The image of a sling straight vs doubled vs girth hitched and it's relative strengths float around and is taken as doctrine. The stiffer sling is an outrageous advantage. NewDoar climbing slings you can trust. but imo, should not be used to clip in for safety on a multipitch. I still use the odd 120 cm nylon slings here and there, as it's a little bit dynamic and it's easier to untie knots. Since you're asking about trad climbing, at some point in your career you're going to have to untie and thread your sling or use it for rap tat. xiobgz ttql plgzizoi ukevatuj whoggu pkuf hpvs dtzg xxtro ofpt hxiibij seo easi kkq xxh